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| Qty | Part | Specific Use | Recommended Purchase |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wade's Extruder | |||
| 3 | M3 Hex Nut | 1 for gear, 2 to attach extruder to x carriage | |
| 1 | M8 Hex Nut | Secures hobbed bolt, don't over-tighten | |
| 7 | M3 Flat Washer | 4 used to mount motor, 2 to attach extruder to x carriage | |
| 27 | M4 Flat Washer | Used to attach springs to idler mount | |
| 5 | M8 Flat Washer | Used to align groove in hobbed bolt with filament hole in Wade's Body, usually 3 front and 2 back | |
| 4 | M4 Wing Nut | Attaches to M4 x 50mm bolts, adjusts tension of springs for the Wade's idler | |
| 3 | M3 x 10mm Machine Screw | Used to attach motor | |
| 2 | M3 x 35mm Machine Screw | Hot End Mount | |
| 2 | M4 x 20mm Machine Screw | Extruder Mount | |
| 4 | M4 x 50mm Tap Bolt | Attaches Wade's Extruder Body to Wade's Extruder Idler | |
| 1 | M3 x 8mm Set Screw | Attaches Wade's Small Gear to Motor | |
| 3 | 608 Bearing | 1 bearing acts as idler pushing filament into groove on hobbed bolt, 2 allow hobbed bolt to spin | |
| 1 | Makergear Hotend | ||
| 4 | M4 Spring | Slides over M4 x 50mm bolts, tensions the Wade's Idler | |
| 1 | Wade's Geared Extruder Body | Main body of the Wade's Extruder | |
| 1 | M8 x 60mm Hobbed Bolt | Groove in hobbed bolt drives filament extrusion | |
| 1 | Wade's Geared Extruder Idler | Mounts idler bearing to tension filament | |
| 1 | Wade's Extruder Big Gear | Attaches to, and spins, hobbed bolt | |
| 1 | Wade's Extruder Small Gear | Attaches to motor and turns Wade's Big Gear | |
| 2 | M4 Nut | Extruder Mount | |
| 1 | Wade's idler Stud | Not required if you have a cutoff of M8 from your threaded rod, but for $.32 saves the effort of an extra cut. | |
| 1 | Budaschnozzle 1.1 PTFE Tube for 1.75mm Filament | ||
| MendelMax 1.5 | |||
| 8 | M8 Hex Nut | M8 or 5/16" Nuts. Any suitable nuts from your local hardware store. Do not use Zinc coated, either plain steel or stainless is fine, and the material does not need to match your rods. | |
| 20 | M3 Flat Washer | McMaster part is for a box of 100. Single parts are likely at least $.05 each, so it is most cost effective to just buy 100. | |
| 4 | M8 Flat Washer | Any suitable nuts from your local hardware store. Do not use Zinc coated, either plain steel or stainless is fine, and the material does not need to match your rods. | |
| 20 | M3 x 10mm Machine Screw | McMaster part is for a box of 100. Single parts are likely at least $.25 each, so it is most cost effective to just buy 100. | |
| 1 | Arduino Mega 2560 R3 | Either the 1280 or 2560 works fine, I recommend the 1280. | |
| 6 | 608 Bearing | 2 each are used for the X & Y idlers, 3 for the Wade's extruder. You will also need four if you use the suggested filament spool. Part number is for a 10 pack for $5, you may want to buy a larger package, these bearings are used in many reprap related pro | |
| 5 | NEMA-17 Bipolar Stepper Motor | http://ultimachine.com/content/kysan-1124090-nema-17-stepper-motor is also suitable. Desired specs: NEMA17 size, 1.5A or less, 8 mH inductance or less, 62oz.in (44Ncm, 4.4kg.cm) or more of torque, 1.8 or 0.9 degrees per step (200/400 steps/rev respectivel | |
| 1 | Ramps | Ultimachine.com is also an excellent choice | |
| 4 | Pololu RAMPs Stepper Driver | Also available from Pololu.com or Ultimachine.com. You need four, but having a spare on hand is not a bad idea. | |
| 6 | 20mm x 420mm Aluminum T-Slot Extrusion | ||
| 4 | 20mm x 340mm Aluminum T-Slot Extrusion | ||
| 4 | 20mm x 300mm Aluminum T-Slot Extrusion | ||
| 2 | Belt Clamp | ||
| 1 | X carriage | ||
| 1 | X End Idler | ||
| 1 | X End Motor Mount | ||
| 100 | M5 10mm bolts | You need exactly 100 of these screws for a standard build, so I recommend you buy a spare bag. If you only get one bag, you can probably source individual replacement screws at Fastenal or another local source, but they are at a substantial premium. You w | |
| 100 | T slot nuts | ||
| 4 | Blind Joint Screws | ||
| 2 | Y Rod Mount | ||
| 1 | Y Motor Mount | ||
| 1 | Y Idler Mount | ||
| 100 | M5 Nut | You only need a few for the assembly, but it is best to buy 100. Zinc coated is fine. Thin nuts are preferable to normal nuts since they can be used in place of t-slot nuts in a pinch, and even used as post-install nuts (they can be inserted through the t | |
| 84 | M5 Washer | M5 or #10 Washers. Either M5 or SAE #10 washers will work. I use SAE #10 because they are slightly cheaper in the US. I use stainless for purely aesthetic reasons. | |
| 1 | 12v 30A Power | 30A is WAY more than you need, even with a 12V Heated Build Platform, but it should last longer if used well under it's specified rating, and the difference in price for an extra 10A is only about $10. You can safely use anything as low as 12V 6A with a 1 | |
| 2 | GT2 Belt | Suitable pulleys & belts are also available from Misumi, but are considerably more expensive. | |
| 2 | Z Top Vertex | ||
| 4 | Z Rod Clasp | ||
| 1 | Heated Build Platform | The MendelMax has a slightly larger build area than a Prusa, but you can use a standard Prusa HBP screwed to the bottom of an aluminum heat spreader. Using a Silicone heater such as McMaster #35765K55 works great too, but requires some expert advice, so c | |
| 2 | Z Shaft Couplers | http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-5x8mm-Motor-Shaft-Coupler-5mm-8mm-Coupling-/180707733213?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a13052edd#ht_4595wt_891. You can also print your own couplers, but I have found printed couplers are considerably less reliable. Printed c | |
| 2 | GT2 Pulley | ||
| 4 | Lower Vertex Lower | ||
| 12 | Linear Bushing | After much debate, I have switched the recommended bushings from the previous Igus bushings, to a much easier to use Self Aligning bushing from SDP. Thease are a bit more expensive, but they are basicalaly foolproof, whereas the Igus bushings required a f | |
| 3 | 8mm Drill Rod 36" | 8mm Drill Rod 36" or 1M. You can use 8mm or 5/16", and any formula of drill rod (Called "Silver Steel" in some parts of the world). Type O1 or W1 is usually cheapest and are perfectly suited to what we need. Stainless is also fine, but is considerably mo | |
| 1 | Aluminum Sheet, 9.75x6x0.1 | Aluminum sheet, 9.75x6x0.1" or 1/8". Y-axis carriage plate | |
| 1 | Aluminum Sheet, 9.75x11x0.1" | Aluminum sheet, 9.75x11x0.1" or 1/8". Y-axis table, scale as needed. May be cheaper if sourced locally. Other materials are possible, but this is my preferred table design. Alloy is irrelevant, the quoted price is for 3003, which is usually the cheapest. | |
| 4 | M5 30mm screws | Used to connect the two plates. I recommend flat head screws, but you will need to countersink your top plate to use these. You can buy a countersink at your local hardware store. These allow you to set the screw tops flush with the table surface so you w | |
| 4 | Lower Vertex Upper | ||
| 4 | Top Vertex | ||
| 1 | Y Idler Tensioner | ||
| 2 | Z Lower Motor Mount | ||
| 4 | Z Lower Motor Mount Support | ||
| 4 | Y Rod Clasp | ||
| 1 | Top Rod Jig 70mm | ||
| 1 | Y Rod Setting Jig | ||
| 8 | M5 20mm screws | You need 8, but I recommend just getting a box, they will be handy for future projects. Again, Stainless and the screw head type are specified only for looks, any similar screw will work. | |
| 1 | 5/16" Threaded Rod | 8mm or 5/16" threaded rod, 36" or 1M. Plain steel or stainless will work, but stainless is recommended. Do not use zinc coated rod, as the zinc can lead to binding. | |
| 2 | AO X Axis End Clamp | ||
| 1 | M8 25mm screw | Used to mount the the idler bearings on the X & Y axes. You may be able to use leftovers of your threaded rod, in which case you will need two extra nuts above. In the US, you can get these at Fastenal for $0.48 each: http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/ | |
| 1 | Shipping | ||
| 1 | Shipping SDP | ||
| 1 | SDRAMPS assembled | ||
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